The alternative title for this post is “Tart crust gives me
high blood pressure” (back story to follow).
What, I ask you, is the best way to spend a hot, mid-June
night? If you answered, “In the same room as a 400°F oven for multiple hours,” then we are kindred spirits! Last night I made
blueberry sour cream tartlets, and by the end of the process I may have been
suffering from mild heat stroke and/or borderline dehydration. But it was worth
it.
Berry season is in full swing, and a good locavore would patronize
the nearest farmer’s market to stock up on home-grown tart filling ingredients.
Alas, this locavore is rather given
to impulse baking decisions, so, since I didn’t make up my mind to bake with berries until early evening when the farmer’s market was already closed,
the blueberries I used for this recipe actually came from a supermarket. Please don’t judge me.
Locally-sourced or not, these desserts were easy to prepare (finicky tart crust notwithstanding), and they’re not aggressively sweet, so they’re perfect for breakfast as a companion to iced coffee or as an after-dinner treat. I took my recipe from this delightful website that apparently specializes in Texas cooking. I did tweak the instructions a bit, adding a couple of other flavor components I’d seen included in other blueberry tart recipes – namely, I added some nutmeg into the crust along with the almond extract already called for in the recipe, and about a teaspoon of fresh orange zest went into the filling to punch up the lemon juice and provide some brightness to balance out the sweetness of the berries.
Speaking of Texas, this week’s post is dedicated to one of
my colleagues in the English department who retired this year. She and her
husband are moving to Austin, TX as I type this. She was an asset to our
department in innumerable ways, and the rest of us are positive that replacing her
in any equitable capacity will be nearly impossible. But we’re excited for her
to start a new adventure. Texas is lucky to be
adding such a singularly bright, genuinely kind, and unfailingly good person to
their population.
Anyway, sentimentality aside, let’s get on with the baking
--
First and foremost, as usual, the ingredients for crust and
filling. Nothing too fancy going on today, just fresh fruit and strong flavors
to complement it. Also, I got to haul out the ol’ food processor yesterday
night to make the dough, which is always fun.
Here the dough post-processor. Every time I make tarts, I
forget that the dough is really the trickiest part. Protip: “I’ll just eyeball
it” is NOT an appropriate attitude with which to approach the addition of tiny,
precise measurements of potent substances ( like 1/8 teaspoon of almond
extract) to delicate mixtures (like tart crust dough). I learned this the hard
way. You see, the primary rule of tart
crust is “Thou shalt not overwork thy dough,” which means the combining process
needs to happen in the shortest, smoothest way possible. Of course, this
pressure stresses me out, so I end up getting flustered when the butter pieces
stick to the bottom of their container and, by the time I’m done dislodging the
last of them and cramming them down the food processor chute, I realize with dismay that I’ve surpassed the 30-second window
the recipe advises should be the maximum for blending this dough. And I still have to add the last, liquid ingredients to the mix! So,
at this point I’m at Tension Defcon 5 and there’s no time for teaspoon
measures, so “I’ll just eyeball it” happens…and THAT, ladies and gentlemen, is
how one ends up with 400% of the recommended amount of almond extract in their
tart crust. Learn from my mistakes. Stay cool in the kitchen. And use your damn
measuring spoons – always.
After the dough was done, both of us needed a good hour to
chill before moving on to the next steps. (This may or may not also be the
point during the baking process when a bottle of wine was opened…)
After the dough was chilled, I rolled it out between sheets of wax paper. Then, for the Crust-Cutting-And-Placing Process, I got to break out my new fillet spatula, which is very useful for handling delicate materials. I also re-purposed the fancy martini glasses I received as a gift a few years ago. Their rims were the perfect size to cut round dough pieces to fit my ramekins, and it was really nice to have a uniform measure rather than hand-piecing the crust into each dish separately.
The original recipe makes a 9’’ tart, and I was able to get six mini-tarts from the same dough. Next time I might make a bit more dough, maybe 1.5X the recipe, so I don’t have to eke out that sixth crust. Also, there would have been enough filling for a seventh tart if I would have budgeted my portioning a bit better. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
The crusts go into
the oven by themselves for 15 minutes, then I take them out, fill them, and
bake them for another hour or so. (Insert “half-baked” joke here. Har har.) During the first round of baking, I had them
covered in foil and filled with pie weights, but that step leaves them looking
rather un-dignified, so I spared the poor things the embarrassment of being
photographed in such a state. Here they are post-foil, waiting to be filled.
Here is the sour cream base for the filling. Like I said earlier, I added a teaspoon of fresh orange zest to the sour cream mixture, and the tangy citrus flavor came through very well. In fact, in the future I might adjust the orange zest to just a quarter or half teaspoon so the milder flavor of the blueberries and almonds isn't overpowered. I like how sour cream
tarts and cakes are more moist but much less cloying than other desserts. It’s
nice to tap into lighter options like these when the weather gets warm. We’re
still missing something, though, aren’t we?
Aha – berry nice! Once the blueberries are folded in, the
crusts can be filled, and we’re almost done.
Got some interesting textures going on here. Looking at these, I remember hoping they'd come out tasting like summertime and not just feel like lumpy custard. In retrospect, I wish I'd topped these with some slivered almonds and perhaps sprinkled some coarse sugar on top. The almond flavor is so delicate that it's easily lost in the mix. (And speaking of
unpleasant textures, I have pictures from a recipe I made over Memorial Weekend
for S’more Pie that I may or may not publish here eventually – maybe in
something akin to a blooper reel that I’ll put together after I’ve collected a
nice variety of screw-ups. In the case of the s’more pie attempt, the graham
cracker and chocolate components were on point; however, the marshmallow
topping was a monumental debacle in the consistency department: think of the
skin that forms on pudding…only half an inch thick).
After nearly an hour in the oven, blueberry sour cream tartlets are done and, though maybe not gorgeous, I think their misshapen asymmetry is endearing. Something store-bought would never look this funny, but it would also never taste this good. And look at the inside, too. The fresh berries infuse the whole tart with aromatic sweetness -- and that color! So many senses can engage with this dessert. Some of the recipes I previewed had the sour cream base prepared and baked separately and just dumped the berries on before serving, but I much prefer this berries-in-the-mix approach.
Overall, I was pleased with the way this recipe turned out, and it
could be varied easily to suit whatever fruits happened to look good at the
farmer’s market (if, unlike me, you can plan that far ahead). The spices and
accent flavors in the crust can also be modified to suit different fruits. I’ve
never been a huge fan of almond extract (though I didn’t mind it here), and
I’ll bet a cardamom-infused crust would taste great with a peach-filled tart,
or a basil-infused crust with strawberry filling, or perhaps even rosemary crust
with chocolate chunks – the
possibilities are delightfully endless.
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